Stars & Stripes Summer Fairisle
By: Sandy Ewing
Passap E6000 or DM80
Very light and airy, this summery fabric is created by knitting the garment double bed, then releasing all stitches from the front bed (main bed) prior to binding off. Then, you pull lengthwise on the knitting, to release the front bed stitches, which opens up the remaining stitches. Although this was knit on a Passap, the same effect can be achieved using a Japanese machine with ribber. Simply substitute main bed wherever front bed is referred to, and ribber for back bed. It is very important that you transfer all stitches to the back bed (ribber) after completing the welt. This prevents the stitches from unraveling past this point.
Yarn: DuoMagic by Bramwell 100% acrylic
Lock Settings: Back lock N. Front lock BXß Deco on #4 [E6000 technique 185] Use Orange strippers. This setting is for 2-color fairisle, with rows 1 and 2 knitting in main color and rows 3 and 4 knitting in contrast color. The back bed or ribber knits every row. For the stripe section, it is not necessary to change yarns. Just knit the 12 row stripes in one solid color. For the star patterned section, knit 2 rows in blue, then two rows in white throughout. Self drawn pattern card or deco card as shown below.
Cast on comb and weights are used throughout.
Pattern includes 2 plain rows above and below the star design. The picture at left is the deco card. E6000 card may be drawn exactly the same. For Japanese machines, it may be necessary to adjust the pattern to fit your punchcard.
Gauge: 5.50 stitches per inch. 11.43 rows per inch.
Stitch Size: Sample garment with knit at stitch size 3 on back bed (ribber) and 2.75 on front bed (main bed). 1:1 ribbing was knit at stitch size 4, with the yarn double stranded.
BACK: With Cast on Combs and double stranded red yarn, cast on over 110 needles (or as charted) in 1:1 rib (1 row N/N ss 1.5/1.5, 2 rows CX/CX ss 3/3, 1 row N/N ss 4/4). Knit 24 rows. Transfer all stitches to back bed. Put all front bed needles and pushers into work. Racking handle down. Set locks at N/BXß ss 3/2.75. Remove one strand of red yarn. Knit in stripes beginning with 12 rows white, 12 rows red to RC 84. Increase for cap sleeves by putting up 1 needle and corresponding pusher at each side every 2 rows 11 times, continuing in stripes to RC 108. RC000
Now, position deco card, move trip cam to left edge of knitting, attach deco and set to #4 [go into stitch pattern]. Starting with blue background color, knit straight 2 rows blue, 2 rows white to RC 104. Drop off all front bed stitches. With black strippers, knit 1 row to left N/N ss 3/5 and crochet bind off back bed stitches.
FRONT: Same as back to RC 108. RC000. Start deco pattern as for back and knit to RC 12. Drop off all front bed stitches. Divide for neck (unless you prefer cut & sew) by first crossing the 2 center stitches on the back bed and then placing the left half on decker combs. Note your deco card position or console RC. Shape right half as follows: RC000. Always drop front bed stitch before decreasing, and work decreases on back bed only. Knit 5 R. Decrease 2 stitch at neck edge. Repeat, decreasing 1 stitch every 5R a total of 16 times. RC 80. Knit 12 R straight. Drop all front bed stitches. With black strippers, ss 3/5 and N/N, knit 1 row to left and crochet off. Repeat with reverse shaping for left half of front.
FINISHING: Sew one shoulder seam, slanted if desired for shoulder drop. Apply commercial neckband and then sew second shoulder seam. Rehang armhole edge and knit band right on using blue yarn doubled. Sew side seams and steam gently, being careful not to touch iron to knitting.
If you have any questions, please feel free to email me at rvcsre@molalla.net I will do my best to help you.
